In conversation with Isabel Czernin Fishlock, BA Saint Martins graduate 2010. Isabel’s studied Fashion Print at Central Saint Martins. I had a chat with her few days ago in Cafe Boheme in Soho about her collection and Saint Martins experiences
Me: You have done such a great job, could you tell me please about your collection?
Isabel: Thank you, well It was inspired initially by the tribal dress of Papua New Guinea - the Huli tribe being the most well known, famous for painting their faces, usually with yellow, red, and white decorations. They also make wigs from their own hair. The wigs look like plumed hats, and are decorated with feathers of paradise birds and colourful parrots. Most importantly their traditions are shaped by the belief that the natural and spiritual worlds are a unified force; nature creates everything, and is sacred.
Me: That sounds very fascinating, how did you come up with this idea ?
Isabel : I chose this tribal theme because the colours and shapes were different from those I would usually choose and because it challenged my previous ideas of colour combinations and fabric use. I felt the Hulis carried the rainforest on their shoulders and in their dress. This lead me to floral prints and an aim to achieve the lightness and beauty that is in a petal of a flower. I appreciate the need to counteract these softer prints with sturdier materials and colourways. The knitted silver elastic, printed sequins, paper skirts, basic clean garments shapes and heavy embroidery should balance them and show them off. These materials and prints lead the design of the shape and silhouette of the garments and hopefully will add a quirky luxury. Each piece is hand painted on fluid habutai silk and embroidered.
Me: which designers were you looking at when you were researching ?
Isabel: I didn’t actually look at any, I don’t really know any. But I do love Dries and Erdem.
Me: I am not surprised actually, Erdem loves florals and so do you from what I can see.
Isabel: I don’t know why I am into florals at the moment , probably because it is very readable . I have a joke with a friend , she made retro ski suits, that her collection was very tacky and mine twee . Its all about balance, it could go horribly wrong.
Me: Were you surprised that you got in into the press show ?
Isabel: Oh yes, because I expected only 4 people from print to get in. It is sad because there are lots of great students who didn’t got it, and I think it is only because they didn’t fit into the theme of the press show.
Me: So what was the theme ?
Isabel: Its a secret, none knows. We just know that there is one.
Me: Was it stressful the final year ?
Isabel : Yes because you have so much doubts, and you hate you collection at the end and you don’t want to see it ever again. and you think you will never be able to make another one, but suddenly the ideas come and you realize that you actually can. Most people were in at 8 in the morning and left at 10 at night, for the last 6 months. The pressure is enormous. And we are not taught how to sew, it’s just expected.
Me: Surely you had tutors support
Isabel: Yes of course. They give you a lot of creative freedom during first and second year, so you either sink or swim, and if you swim than in a final year you are fine, they really look after you.
Me: Tell me how do you feel about up coming move of the college to the new Kings Cross building?
Isabel: I think its very sad, the soho location is really important. It feels like a village here, feels cut off from london. There are some areas that are not touched by tourists yet. And the building is so huge, I wonder if there will be enough space in Kings Cross. Another great thing is that you are not stuck in the same room , you can find your self working next to MA student or menswear student.
Me: But in the new building you surly there will be lots of interactions with students and not only CSM students but also students from LCF and other colleges of UAL
Isabel: Being with FLC and LCC, will be a very different environment. Saint Martins is a brand on its own, it has nothing to do with University of the arts. It is slightly elitist, there’s an arrogance but its funny.
Me: And how do you feel about the actually physical building on Charing cross road ?
Isabel: The great thing about it is that it doesn’t feel to precious, you can move the way you want, you cant do what you want, you can build a photoshoot on a stairwell, you can spray your shoes on the last minute on a stairwell. Before the show I was spraying all the shoes in different colours, and I don’t think you could do the same thing in the new building. Also things are braking, particularly in a print room , there are lots of accidents , happy accidents come out on your prints. My trousers with white check for example , the reason why they are gold colour is because the indalca was off, none was regulating it. The building has its own spirit. You know our teachers Natalie and Lindsey have an office, its like grotto, father Christmas crazy den , it has umbrellas hanging upside down, parrots its like a magpie nest. In the new building there will be a hot desk system which means that teachers wont have their own place.
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